Free Crocus Bud Sock Pattern (Guidelines really)

Well, I tinkered and piddled, and this is what I came up with. I had a hank of Colinette Jitterbug in Mardi Gras. I tried 3 different patterns and had a problem with pooling of the reds (always on the top of the foot...go figure) so I decided to do a prototype pattern that would hopefully break up the pooling. This is what I got. Now, while I have written patterns in the past, this is really just more of a guideline for those that have knit socks before. While it is an easy pattern, if you are new to knitting toe up socks, it might seem a little daunting. If you find any errors, please let me know!

Crocus Bud Socks

Yarn: 2 balls Colinette Jitterbug in Mardi Gras was used. It is a fingering weight sock yarn, but I didn't use all the yarn.
Needles: Addi Turbos US Size 0 (I used 2 needles)
Construction: Toe Up with Short Row Heel
Made for a US Size 9 Ladies Shoe
Abbreviations used: K (knit), M1 (Make 1), YO (Yarn Over), P3SO (Pass 3rd Stitch Over), W&T (Wrap & Turn), P (Purl)

Cast on 13 stitches to each needle using your favorite cast on method. I prefer Judy's Magic Cast on (instructions can be found on Knitty)

Row 1-Knit around both needles.
Row 2-K1 stitch, M1 by picking up the strand between the stitch you just knit and the next stitch. Knit to last stitch, M1, K1. Repeat for second needle. You now have 15 stitches on each needle.
Row 3-Knit around both needles.

Repeat Rows 2 & 3 until you have 29 stitches on each needle.

Knit 10 Rows without increasing.

When working pattern for the foot, only work the pattern on the top of the foot, continue in stockinette stitch for the sole.

Row 1 of Pattern: K1, *YO, K2* Repeat from * across needle. Needle 2 Knit.
Row 2 of Pattern: *K3, pass the first stitch you knit over the other two. From now on this will be a P3SO. Repeat from * to last stitch. K1.
Row 3 of Pattern: *K2, YO. Repeat from * to last stitch, K1.
Row 4 of Pattern: K1, *K3, P3SO, repeat from * to end.

Tips: If you have 1 stitch with a space then 2 stitches, you are ready for a Row 1. If you have 2 stitches with a space and then 2 stitches, you are ready for a Row 3. When working your K3's, your second stitch (middle stitch) will be in the YO's of the previous row.....so if you have 1 stitch & a YO, you are ready for Row 2, If you have 2 stitches and then a YO you are ready for Row 4.

Now, work your sock until you are about 1.5 inches from the heel. I happened to work 17 rounds of the 4 row pattern. I ended by working Row 4 and pausing using Needle 1.

Time for the heel ! (Work on Needle 2 only)
Row 1: K to last stitch, W&T
Row 2: P to last stitch, W&T
Row 3: K to stitch before last wrapped stitch, W&T
Row 4: P to stitch before last wrapped stitch, W&T

Repeat Rows 4 & 5 until you have 7 unwrapped stitches between wraps, ready to work a knit row.

Row 1: K to first wrapped stitch, knit along with wrap (unwrap it), W&T next stitch.
Row 2: S1, P to first wrapped stitch, purl along with wrap, W&T next stitch.
Row 3: S1, K to first double wrapped stitch, knit along with both wraps, W&T
Row 4: S1, P to first double wrapped stitch, purl along with both wraps, W&T

Repeat Rows 3 & 4 until you have 1 wrapped stitch on one side. You will work the wraps on the first round when you work that stitch.

Resume working in the round starting with the row you left off at (mine was I had finished a Row 4 so I was ready for a Row 1 of the pattern).

On both needles work pattern stitch as written. This gives you a K1 at the sides to reduce the chance of ladders, while still keeping the pattern (mostly) intact. I worked 20 of the 4 row repeat.

Cuff: Work in K1, P1 ribbing for 10 rows (on Needle 1 it is K1, P1, on Needle 2 it is P1, K1)

Picot Bind Off: *Insert right needle into first stitch, YO, pull through and place on left needle. Repeat. (You have just casted on or added on 2 stitches).

Cast off/Bind off 4 stitches.

Place the one stitch from the right needle back onto the left needle and repeat from * around.

Weave in yarn end.

Note: My sock ended up being a little too big in the ankle, but fits the calf nicely and I think that it will probably shrink a little w/ washing and blocking, but I don't know for sure since I haven't even finished with the second sock yet and therefore haven't washed or blocked them yet. Please let me know what you think and if you notice any errors in the pattern. Thank you!